Friends, Futbol, and Snow

October 12. Snow. After three years of "summer" in Southern China, welcome to Sarajevo. Two days prior we had been enjoying a Saturday picnic in 75 degree weather. So much for fall.

The girls did not see the snow until the morning of the 13th. By 7AM they were fully outfitted. Mom and Dad had to work, while Talin was "sick", so that she and Alma could play. Talin loved the snow. Alma has yet to make up her mind. The snow was deep and thick enough that Alma kept getting stuck where she was. We figure by "sledding" season, she'll come around.


About six inches of the fluffy stuff (actually a heavy, wet snow) fell. Great for snowball fights. Lots of tree damage as the leaves had yet to fall off, in fact we lost a small tree as it fell in our driveway.

Futbol - This Wednesday Jim was fortunate enough to attend Bosnia v. Spain World Cup qualifying match in Zenica, about an hour north of Sarajevo. Spain had already clinched first in the group, Bosnia second (see further explanation below), so little at stake except pride. Bosnia had plenty of it, unfortunately, Spain (#1 team in the world) had the better futbol team. Despite the 5-2 loss, Bosnian fans in full chanting and singing mode throughout. It was impressive to see Spain play, making the US victory over Spain this summer seem that much more incredible.

A few days before Bosnia v. Spain, Bosnia had traveled to Estonia for a World Cup qualifier. By winning that game, Bosnia assured themselves of at least a shot of qualifying for the World Cup. I continue to mention futbol (soccer), as it has been the dominant theme for this nation of late. The victory set off a city-wide celebration that we were fortunate enough to witness. Our good friends Sean and Dianna were also in town to share this experience with us.

Tyvand's and Egusa's enjoying ourselves at a downtown cafe watching Bosnia v. Estonia.

Rug and artifact shop just off the main promenade in Old Town (Bascarsija District)

People of Sarajevo streaming into the Old Town District after the victory over Estonia. A source of immense national pride as arguably the most positive national event following the 92-95 war.

Scene from a mosque during the evening call to prayer (approximately 9:30PM

We were very fortunate to have our good friends, the Eguasa's, as visitors last week. As you now know, they could not have picked a better time. Thursday evening (their first day) started with a visit to a local Bosnian restaurant on the river, Imidz. They spent Friday downtown exploring, and then joined us that evening for a party at the British Ambassadors residence (sponsored by the school's Parent Organization). Saturday was a staff BBQ (The 75 degree one), then Saturday night downtown for futbol and celebration.


Jim and Sean enjoying the downtown revelry.


Scenes from Old Town. Above, Catholic Church (steps from an Orthodox Church, and many Mosques). Below, Bosnia fan celebrating at the eternal flame.


Posing in front of the School Logo. Yep, we work in Sarajevo.

Our New Home - Sarajevo

Turns out, Sarajevo is not that difficult to get to. Brief 12 hour flight, LAX to Munich, wait around for a couple of hours, then Munich to Sarajevo. The girls were very well behaved, including the elder Mrs. Tyvand, who traveled with us to help with the settling in process. The difficult part is the hauling of 10 very large 49.5 pound bags. Ironically, we turned more heads in LAX than we did in Sarajevo. Not even sure the customs inspector in Sarajevo looked up as we passed.

We were picked up from the airport and shuttled to our farmhouse in Vogosca, about 5 miles outside of downtown Sarajevo. The school we will be teaching at is also located here, as is a charming main street (no pictures this time).

It's really been go, go, go, since we arrived. Many different trips to orient us with the city and the surrounding area. This past weekend, we ventured to the Croatian coast, which promises to be a frequent destination. We've snapped a few photos (many more to come).

This is our farmhouse. There is plenty of room for the girls to roam, a guestroom (so come visit), living, dining rooms and kitchen on the first level, bedrooms on the second level, Jim's dungeon on the floor/driveway level.



We took an evening and drove up to Jahorina (one of the Olympic Sites). Our friends tell us we'll be spending quite a bit of time up here in the winter. Old style lifts, no main lodge but rather a number of smaller restaurants, rental/ticket shops, etc.



Here is where we'll work. Tyvand's work upstairs in the high school (4 rooms).



On our way home from Jahorina, we stopped at this trout restaurant. Incredibly unique, stream cascaded through a multi-tiered outside dining area. Talin managed to fall into one of the trout ponds.




Old Town Sarajevo. A melting pot of 4 religions. We've had a little time to explore this area, but not nearly enough to learn the history. More to come.








Quick visit to Mostar. Postcard photo from the Stari Bridge (although rebuilt as it was destroyed in the war). Only stopped for lunch, but we'll be back.



Croatia. 4 1/2 hour drive from Sarajevo. Already planning our 4 day weekend in September for a return visit. Entire coast seemed built into mountainsides. Water unbelievably clear. Tiny villages dot the coastline. We stayed in Brela and will be back. Crowded, as it seemed all of Europe had descended, saw plates from Russia, Czech Republic, Ireland, Italy, Germany, Austria, France, Serbia, etc, etc.

Beijing 2009

Apologies to those who look forward to viewing photos of our adorable girls, but Jim (I from now one) took a trip to Beijing a couple of weeks back. Figured you'd enjoy looking at a couple of snaps from the trip. I traveled to Beijing without children not because it's an incredibly unstroller friendly city (as is most of China), nor because I wanted to trek without my better half (I didn't, she visited Beijing as a high school student), but because I had a conference to attend. Oh, the druthers of the overseas Athletic Director/Coach, conference in Beijing, tournament in Shanghai, practice game in Hong Kong. I've not seen as much of China as I'd hoped, but Beijing was special.

Water Cube - Olympic Swimming Site. Tens of thousands of Chinese were milling about the Olympic Promenade (between Bird's Nest Stadium and Water Cube). While many Olympic cities have struggled with facilities post Games, the Chinese have opened up the Water Cube and the Bird's Nest as tourist sites. My guess is that tens of millions of Chinese will pay approximately $7 to see each of these sites. Throw in an occasional U2 concert, and you've got a profitable enterprise.

The Great Wall. As impressive a structure as I've ever seen. Literally built on ridge lines. It's rumored a person or two may have perished during its' construction. Would have really enjoyed an opportunity to hike along it for a few days (or weeks). I visited the section typically listed 2nd in guide books, Mutianyu. With the help of my good friend and former Peace Corps Volunteer, Scott Urbom (along with his youngest daughter, and his car), we made our way to the cable car that whisked us to the ridge line, and the Wall. Hope you enjoy the photos.





Tiananmen Square - The world's largest public square, but a bit different than I had imagined. Not enclosed like Red Square in Moscow, but open, flanked by government buildings on a couple of sides, and the Forbidden City to the north (or at least I think that is the direction). Difficult to stand there and not imagine what took place 20 years ago. Impressive security contingent.

Chairman Mao Mausoleum - Had hoped to get a peek (would have then been able to claim seeing Lenin and Mao in their final resting places), but his tomb was closed for maintenance, or something like that. Definitely a missed opportunity to view the man Chinese now openly say was 70% right, and 30% wrong.

Forbidden City - Hired a guide, and spent 3 hours exploring. Guide seemed a little focused on where concubines lived and worked, but managed to share volumes of history about these magnificent imperial grounds. Although I'll need to reference history and guide books to recall my tour, certainly a privilege to explore grounds that were off limits to Chinese for 500 years (hence, the name). As a parting shot, good to know kickbacks, and making a buck off of history and family connections still alive and well in Beijing. My guide managed to take me "off the beaten path" to a courtyard where tea was served. I then got to meet a nephew of the last emperor. As chance would have it, he's a renowned scroll artist. For the sum of $100-$200 I would be allowed to purchase one of his scrolls. Can you believe I passed on this opportunity?




Parting shot, the Bird's Nest. I did pay $7 to go inside. Well worth it. Allowed to walk on the track and field surface with highlights of the Olympics playing on the large screens. What was undeniably obvious in the faces of the Chinese on the field with me, was the pride they had for this stadium, the Olympic games, this city, and their country.