Istanbul - The Bridge Between Asia and Europe

Welcome to Istanbul, population during this weekend, 14 million or so + 2, sans our children.  As chance would have it, Bosnia's statehood holiday typically falls right around Thanksgiving (no jokes about visting Turkey on Turkey day please).  We took advantage of the four day weekend and took a short flight (90 minutes) to Istanbul, leaving Talin and Alma with our dear friend Snezna, who was Alma's nanny our first two years in Sarajevo. 

 Hagia Sofia, completed in the 4th century as a Christian Cathedral during Roman and Byzantine times, converted to a Mosque during the reign of the Ottoman Empire, and opened as a tourist site (no longer a working mosque) in 1935.  Likely the most visited and photographed site in all of Turkey. 

 Between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia is a large courtyard from which this photograph was taken.  We visited the area twice during our stay, and took a tour of Hagia Sofia on our second trip.  Jim thought he knew quite a bit about the building and its history, but Rose convinced him to pony up for the audio tour.  Rose may have been right.

Interior of Hagia Sofia, our camera does not do it justice.  Impressive in a similar fashion as the Duomo in Florence or St. Peter's Basilica in Rome.  Though dominated by Muslim decoration and artifacts, a few Christian mosaics can be found.  These were covered by plaster during Ottoman times. 

 Pillars in the interior.

 We were able to walk up to the second level where this photo was taken. 

 Rose and the miraculous pillar.  Legend has it that if you place your thumb in the middle and rotate your hand 360 degrees, you will be granted a wish.  Rose wished for a shopping trip to the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar.  Jim forgot to wish. 

 The Blue Mosque (not actually blue).  Taken from the same courtyard as Hagia Sofia photo.  A working mosque, we visited during call to prayer and did not venture inside.  Built in the 17th century, both the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia dominate the skyline in this part of Istanbul.

 Inside the courtyard of the Blue Mosque.  Rose covered her head as custom dictates. 

 Rose at the entrance of the Blue Mosque. 

 Parting shot from the Blue Mosque. 

We spent most of Friday walking the city.  A lack of a plan for the day led to our 8 hour trek around the historical districts of Istanbul.  We captured this image at a smaller mosque, with the rainbow piercing the minaret. 

Inside the Grand Bazaar.  Rose's wish came true.  Built in the 15th century, a massive indoor shopping experience.  Remodeled over the years due to damage from earthquakes, the Grand Bazaar feels somewhat modern.  We actually visited on Friday as part of our trek, were intimidated because we had no idea what we wanted to buy, and left rather quickly.  We returned on Saturday, Rose had a plan, and 3 hours later left with gifts for friends and family and a drawing of 18th century Istanbul for ourselves. 

Packed Grand Bazaar.  There was nowhere to hide for Jim, though he tried.

A stall at the Spice Bazaar.  Built in the 17th century, every tour group stops here.  Just about any spice you can imagine (Jim can imagine salt, pepper, and red pepper). 

The Suleymaniye Mosque at night from our Saturday evening dining spot, actually the larget mosque in Istanbul.  Geographically set apart from Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque, we visited during our 8 hour trek and ventured inside.  

Galata Bridge, linking the historic district with the old town.  A massive remodel occured in 2005 when restaraunts were added below and light rail above.  Notice the dozens of fisherman above.  We sat and had a beer outside at one of these establishments, ducking swinging baited lines while we did so.  In the historic district we found a wine bar at the foot of the Galata Tower (can't believe we didn't photograph the tower).

Ancient Roman aqueduct, built in the 4th century.  Now located in the middle of bustling Istanbul.  About 200 meters away, arches act as tunnels for a major city ring road.  

Ahhhhhh, Brela

Welcome to Brela, Croatia.  We were trying to remember just how many times we've visited here in 3+ years, and our best guess has it at 8 or 9 times.  It's not that we have skipped the rest of the country (been to Dubrovnik twice, the island of Korcula, Paklenica National Park to name a few others), but we always come back here.  Much of Europe has discovered Croatia, but we've been fortunate to typically visit in May and September and miss the crowds.  Brela was introduced to us during our first week in Sarajevo, and we've paid it forward to all of our friends here and anybody lucky to visit us in September or May. 

 This is where we stay, about 70 steps up from the beach, in a large home with apartments owned by Matko Raos.  There are side by side 2 room apartments with a shared patio, typically we share the other apartment with friends, (Hamric's, Stalker's, Spinner's, Starkey's, Falsetti's) come to mind.  Matko has been a great host over the years, and we highly recommend this spot should you be in the mood for a Croatian beach vacation. 

 The view of "our" beach from Monkey Face rock (more on this later).  We imagine the beach has a name, but have fallen into the habit of calling it our beach.  Makto's place is about 2.5 miles from the center of Brela, connected by a wide path ideal for jogging or biking.  If you look real closely between the two trees, you might spot a small beachside bar that we've been known to frequent. 

 Alma relaxing on the beach, photo from south to north.  Clear, clean, warm water.  Gently sloping beach. Talin has honed her swimming skills here, Alma has learned to swim here.  As long as we're here, we will keep coming back.

 This is about as close as Rose gets to actually being in the water.  Talin, on the other hand, rarely spends any time out of the water. 

 The leap from Monkey Face rock.  The girls usually supply a countdown, and then dad jumps.  Notice Talin on the adjacent rock.  She had scrambled up to relieve Jim of his sunglasses.  Jim has lost two pairs jumping off this rock (Rose subsequently recovered one)  We have jumped off this rock on every visit, day and night, various states of clothing.  The depth of the water in the landing area is deeper than it appears.

 Alma posing in the Adriatic.  Spinner boys and Talin in the background.  The water IS this clear. 

 AM view of Monkey Face rock and our beach from the patio.  The day typically starts with a breakfast on the patio, then we hit the beach about 10AM.  Lunch back on the patio, then the afternoon on our beach.  With the exception of bike trips to town for provisions (bread, beer, bananas), we usually do not venture more than 500 yards from our beach. 

 Talin, and a perfect skipping rock.

 Welcome to Pirate Bar and Beach, 500 yards from Makto's place.  This is where we eat dinner, drink suds, and watch the girls play on the beach. 

 View of Pirate Bar from the beach.  The girls eat cevapi (sausage like national dish of Bosnia), Rose experiments with the menu, Jim eats squid (fried and grilled).  A beer or two is also consumed.

 Talin and Alma on Pirate beach.  They play before and after dinner.  Rose and Jim park at the picnic table. 

 View from our table at Pirate Bar looking at the beach.  No idea as to the origins of the "Pirate" name (restaraunt is actually called something else, name does not come to mind though), but we think one of us may have termed the place based on the "plank" visible on the left. 

Had to include the a picture of the tree.  If you google Brela, you are bound to see this image.  More importantly, come visit us, we will take you here.  

Pocitelj

We're back.  Experimented with another blog only to learn many of you were unable to view.  Then, we got lazy.  Missing from this site are our travels to Austria, Germany, and the Czech Republic last Christmas, our massive snow storm in Sarajevo this Jan/Feb, a Spring Break trip to the Italian Alps, and many other shorter trips that we should be documenting here. 

So welcome to Pocitelj, a UNESCO World Heritage site, located right here in Bosnia and Herzegovina about a 2 1/2 hour drive from Sarajevo.  Colleagues of ours from work arranged for us to stay at this 15th century fortress this past weekend, once a key strategic site during both medieval and Ottoman times.  It now functions primarily as a tourist spot and an artist colony. 

If you're interested in the history from a Bosnian perspective, check out this link:
http://www.bhtourism.ba/eng/pocitelj.wbsp

Mosque and Watch/Clock tower in the background.  Bell from the Clock tower was melted during WWI to make weapons.   Much of the site was damaged during the Bosnian War, while repairs and rebuilding began in 2000.

 Same structures, eye-level view, and at sunset.

 View of the Citadel from rebuilt defensive wall.

 View of minaret from the building we stayed in. 

Talin and Alma standing near the bottom of Pocitelj.  Talin's prized possession from the trip, a replica dagger that has her swashbuckling all over our house.

Path leading to the Citadel.  As we explored the tower, we discovered it was not "kid" friendly, as one could easily crawl out of any of the windows.  Bosnia has a different standard for access to historical site, the benefit being up close experiences, the downside being a bit of danger from time to time.

View of the site from the Citadel, looking down upon the Neretva River.  The road you see takes us to the Croatian coast, where we will be visiting this upcoming weekend.  

A side trip to Kravice waterfall.  Bosnia's tallest waterfall at 30 meters.  A wedding ceremony on the banks was about to take place just after sunset.

Who could resist a dip in the cold, fresh waters?  The girls and Rose.  To their credit, the girls did walk with Jim to the other side.

We're off to Croatia later this week, look for a new blog soon.