Dubrovnik - You Gotta See This Place

Late in November we took advantage of a long weekend and drove to Dubrovnik, Croatia, about 4 1/2 hours from Sarajevo. We'd seen photos, had the guide book, heard the good word of mouth about the place, but all that didn't seem to prepare us for the amazing sight that is the walled city of Dubrovnik. Naturally, we first witnessed it driving around it on less than a one-lane road looking for a place to park. Amazingly, the parking "dudes" had little patience for a caravan of three cars blocking traffic, asking for directions in English, and generally disrupting the calm, non touristy, non cruise season, late fall Dubrovnik.

Alas, we did find a place to store the autos, and entered the walled city where we would be staying for the next three days. The idea to stay at a small pension inside the city proved a good decision, and we would highly recommend to anyone thinking of a visit.

We spent our first evening dining at a waterside pizza place, looking back over the city as the sun went down. The kids had a plaza to run around, and the adults had copious amounts of red wine to enjoy.

We spent most of our weekend exploring the many plazas, courtyards, alleys, and nooks that make up the walled city. There was a noticeable absence of kids, and guessing that when the six we had engaged in a light-saber battle in one of the squares, a few locals may have noticed.

We'll be back for another look, in the meantime, enjoy the photos.





OUR PIZZA PLACE

Riga - It's Dark Here

In November 2009, the adult version of the Tyvand family attended an AP conference in Riga, Latvia. Highlights included a 5 hour layover in Vienna without children, a hotel with an extensive sauna complex (reminded us of Russian banya experience) in the basement, good restaurants and an evening in downtown Riga.

Given the time of year, the latitude of Latvia, and the fact that we spent our days locked up in meetings, we really only got to see Riga at night. Another way of saying that if you dropped us off there in the daytime we may not recognize the place. Theme of the trip, "Riga, it's dark here".

We spent our first night in the hotel utilizing the extensive sauna system in the basement. One had their choice of sauna rooms based upon temperature. Small pools were available for the inevitable cool down.

Our last evening we explored the historic cobblestone downtown area and celebrated our 8th wedding anniversary.

The daytime picture you see is taken in Jarmala, location of our hotel, approximately 20 km from Riga. Beach resort town, and judging from the photos posted in local restaurants, quite the place to be during the summer months.

Friends, Futbol, and Snow

October 12. Snow. After three years of "summer" in Southern China, welcome to Sarajevo. Two days prior we had been enjoying a Saturday picnic in 75 degree weather. So much for fall.

The girls did not see the snow until the morning of the 13th. By 7AM they were fully outfitted. Mom and Dad had to work, while Talin was "sick", so that she and Alma could play. Talin loved the snow. Alma has yet to make up her mind. The snow was deep and thick enough that Alma kept getting stuck where she was. We figure by "sledding" season, she'll come around.


About six inches of the fluffy stuff (actually a heavy, wet snow) fell. Great for snowball fights. Lots of tree damage as the leaves had yet to fall off, in fact we lost a small tree as it fell in our driveway.

Futbol - This Wednesday Jim was fortunate enough to attend Bosnia v. Spain World Cup qualifying match in Zenica, about an hour north of Sarajevo. Spain had already clinched first in the group, Bosnia second (see further explanation below), so little at stake except pride. Bosnia had plenty of it, unfortunately, Spain (#1 team in the world) had the better futbol team. Despite the 5-2 loss, Bosnian fans in full chanting and singing mode throughout. It was impressive to see Spain play, making the US victory over Spain this summer seem that much more incredible.

A few days before Bosnia v. Spain, Bosnia had traveled to Estonia for a World Cup qualifier. By winning that game, Bosnia assured themselves of at least a shot of qualifying for the World Cup. I continue to mention futbol (soccer), as it has been the dominant theme for this nation of late. The victory set off a city-wide celebration that we were fortunate enough to witness. Our good friends Sean and Dianna were also in town to share this experience with us.

Tyvand's and Egusa's enjoying ourselves at a downtown cafe watching Bosnia v. Estonia.

Rug and artifact shop just off the main promenade in Old Town (Bascarsija District)

People of Sarajevo streaming into the Old Town District after the victory over Estonia. A source of immense national pride as arguably the most positive national event following the 92-95 war.

Scene from a mosque during the evening call to prayer (approximately 9:30PM

We were very fortunate to have our good friends, the Eguasa's, as visitors last week. As you now know, they could not have picked a better time. Thursday evening (their first day) started with a visit to a local Bosnian restaurant on the river, Imidz. They spent Friday downtown exploring, and then joined us that evening for a party at the British Ambassadors residence (sponsored by the school's Parent Organization). Saturday was a staff BBQ (The 75 degree one), then Saturday night downtown for futbol and celebration.


Jim and Sean enjoying the downtown revelry.


Scenes from Old Town. Above, Catholic Church (steps from an Orthodox Church, and many Mosques). Below, Bosnia fan celebrating at the eternal flame.


Posing in front of the School Logo. Yep, we work in Sarajevo.

Our New Home - Sarajevo

Turns out, Sarajevo is not that difficult to get to. Brief 12 hour flight, LAX to Munich, wait around for a couple of hours, then Munich to Sarajevo. The girls were very well behaved, including the elder Mrs. Tyvand, who traveled with us to help with the settling in process. The difficult part is the hauling of 10 very large 49.5 pound bags. Ironically, we turned more heads in LAX than we did in Sarajevo. Not even sure the customs inspector in Sarajevo looked up as we passed.

We were picked up from the airport and shuttled to our farmhouse in Vogosca, about 5 miles outside of downtown Sarajevo. The school we will be teaching at is also located here, as is a charming main street (no pictures this time).

It's really been go, go, go, since we arrived. Many different trips to orient us with the city and the surrounding area. This past weekend, we ventured to the Croatian coast, which promises to be a frequent destination. We've snapped a few photos (many more to come).

This is our farmhouse. There is plenty of room for the girls to roam, a guestroom (so come visit), living, dining rooms and kitchen on the first level, bedrooms on the second level, Jim's dungeon on the floor/driveway level.



We took an evening and drove up to Jahorina (one of the Olympic Sites). Our friends tell us we'll be spending quite a bit of time up here in the winter. Old style lifts, no main lodge but rather a number of smaller restaurants, rental/ticket shops, etc.



Here is where we'll work. Tyvand's work upstairs in the high school (4 rooms).



On our way home from Jahorina, we stopped at this trout restaurant. Incredibly unique, stream cascaded through a multi-tiered outside dining area. Talin managed to fall into one of the trout ponds.




Old Town Sarajevo. A melting pot of 4 religions. We've had a little time to explore this area, but not nearly enough to learn the history. More to come.








Quick visit to Mostar. Postcard photo from the Stari Bridge (although rebuilt as it was destroyed in the war). Only stopped for lunch, but we'll be back.



Croatia. 4 1/2 hour drive from Sarajevo. Already planning our 4 day weekend in September for a return visit. Entire coast seemed built into mountainsides. Water unbelievably clear. Tiny villages dot the coastline. We stayed in Brela and will be back. Crowded, as it seemed all of Europe had descended, saw plates from Russia, Czech Republic, Ireland, Italy, Germany, Austria, France, Serbia, etc, etc.